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014 082 847 6 



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A NEW SYSTEM 



FOIJ 



CUTTING PANTALOONS, 



UNEQUALLED FOR SIMPLICITY 



AND 



CERTAINTY T< ) FIT ALL FORMS. 



T5Y 8. C. AMES, 

INVENTOR AND PUBLISHER. 



BOSTON: 

PUBLISHED BY THE INVENT OK 
1864. 



V NEW SYSTEM 



jort 



CUTTING PANTALOONS 



UHEQUALLED FOR SIMPLICITY 



AND 



CERTAINTY TO FIT ALL FORMS. 




• 



BY S. C. AMES. 

IXYLNTOR AND PUBLISHES. 




BOSTON : 
PUBLISHED BY THE INVENTOR 
1864. 









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X 



Entered acecording to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, by 

S . C . AMES, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court oi the District of Massachusetts, 



ZiT" 



TO THE TRADE. 



Gentlemen : — -Permit me tG introduce to your notice, my "Pant and Vest 
System, together with an explanation of the proper method of Measuring" 
and Drafting the same. 

It is a great satisfaction to the Cutter, as It certainly is to the customer.. 
to see his garment fit properly and with unerring exactness, so that the 
shape and proportions of the human figure shall be exhibited to the best 
advantage ; but how often does the Cutter fail in turning out such a garment 
that shall in all respects and points fit the person, and at the same time give 
an air of fashionable elegance to the wearer. 

This, by the author, and many able Cutters now using the Rule, (and whe/ 
have advised me to present it to the Trade as the best System now in use.)' 
is believed to be attained. 

However, I do it with diffidence, there having been so many worthless- 
systems claiming your attention, that true merit is liable ts be treated with 
suspicion and indifference. 

In presenting this System for your inspection. I earnestly solicit the 
s-trictest investigation and scrutiny, and if found to be fairly demonstrated 1 
that I have introduced a real improvement, by economising time, labor and 
money. I trust that the Trade at large will give me that credit which the 
liberal and discerning of every age award to the inventors of systems and' 
arts, which are beneficial and useful to the community. ■ 

Very respectfully and truly, yours. 

S. G. AMES. 



EXPLANATION OF THE RULE. 



In the first place, a cutter should be particular to take correct measures, 
and to know for what purpose each measure is taken. He should in all cases 
discard proportions, arid rely upon the several measures regardless of anti- 
quated notions of proportions, whether he draft a coat, pants or vest. 

Therefore, in cutting by this System, the bottom of the pants is drafted by 
a division of the measure taken for the size, adding J number (which is J inch) 
on the scale for seams or making up, this and the knee measure being the 
only ones you allow for seams. The thigh is also drafted by a di- 
vision of the the thigh measure. The hips by a division of the hip measure, 
The waist by a division of the waist measure, all of which are laid down on 
the square as taken in full size — the tape only being used in drafting to get 
the lengths. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MEASUREMENT. 

First, with a tape I measure from the waistband on the right side, to the 
knee, say 23 inches, and to the sole of the boot, say 40 inches. I then take 
the end of the tape with the thumb and fore finger of the left hand, and carry 
the end of the tape to the fork : then measure for the inside seam, or length 
of leg, to the sole of the boot, say 30 inches. 

These are all the length measures necessary for drafting pants by this 
rule. 

Measures of circumference should be taken firm, but not tight enough to 
indent or compress the pai ts. 

THE MEASURES AS TAKEN. 



From waistband to knee, 23 

From waistband to sole of boot, 40 
From fork to sole of boot, 30 

Waist measure, 31 

Hip measure, 36 



Thigh, close up to fork, dress side. 22 
Knee measure, 23 

Bottom measure, 16-J*cut 17 

Thigh, undress side, 23 J 



~KL DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. 

Diagram I. 

Mark line A. for edge of cloth ; square tfoe bottom by line A. 



Prom to G is length of leg. 

From to 7 is full length of forepart 

From: 7 to 8 is length to knee. 



From (T to 12 is scale 5 thigh dross. 
From. C to 13 is scale & ** ondre 



From to 2 is scale 1 bottom, 
From 2 to 3 is scale 1 bottom. 
From 3 to 4 is scale 3 bottom, 
From 2 to 5 is scale 3 bottom. 

Sweep line B, C, and 1). by point 4, 

From G to 9 is scale 6 hip. less 3 sizes. 
From 9 to 10 is scale 4 hip. 
From G to 11 is scale G hip. 

Draw line E from point -i, through 10 to 14, 
From 14 to 1 5 is .scale 2 waist, | From M to IC is scale- 2 r waist. 

Straighten line C, and shape the leg to fashion, and' yon are ready to cut. 

Notch in sweeps B and D, and same in back parts ; arid be particular to* 
have the notches come together in making up,. 

BACK PART.— Diagram 2. 
Lay foropart on to back part, leaving cloth enough for points 17, hip, 
knee and 0, and sweep from 1G to 17, by point 2 at bottom, and extend 
sweep B and I) by point 4. 



From 14 to 17 is scale G waist. 
From ( J to 18 is scale G hip. 

Sweep Iry point 18 from 10 for seat. 



From 10 to 10 is scale 6 hip. 



From 11 to 20 is scale 2 hip. 
From 14 to 21 is scale 3 tmVh dress. 



From 3 to is scale 5 bottom, 
i From 5 to 22 is scale 5 bottom. 

Take the length of the leg from sweep B, and shape like Diagram, or I 
fashion or fancy. 

I usually draw a straight line from to 17.. and from point 20 to bottom, 
laying the straight edge out from point 22, J of an inch, which is the same 
distance as from 9 to 11; then shape from knee to 22. These lines are- 
merely for a guide in shaping the pants. I also, on the forepart mark lines 
from 5 to 6 and 3 to 13, laying the straight edge out at bottom J of an inch, 
as on back part. 

Diagram 3. — Urr^R Side. 

This is a better draft for the present style to cut for corpulent men. as it 

cuts the under side less full at outside seam on sweep B. 

From to 2 is scale 1 bottom. From to 4 is scale 3 bottom.. 

From 2 to 3 is scale 3 bottom. 

Measure the lengths B, C. and D. and sweep by point 2 ; obtain all other 

points same as Diagram 1 ; shape the^leg as represented., cutting the dress 

les; straight from fork to knee, en 1 curving: the undress. 



Diagram 3. — Under Stdf.. 

Lay on the forepart as represented, leaving cloth enough for point 10 ; 
sweep from 10 by point 4. 

From 5 to 6 is scale 2 hip. From 3 to 9 is scale 3 bottom. 

From 7 to 8 is scale 2 hip. 

Obtain all other points same as Diagram 2, and shape as represented. 

BOYS' PANTS. 

Diagram 4. 

Mark line A for edge of cloth. 

From to 2 is scale 1 bottom. | From 2 to 3 is scale 1 bottom. 

Take the lengths as directed in Diagram 1, and sweep B, C and D by 
point 2. 

From 4 to 5 is scale G hip. From 4 to 7 is scale 5 thigh. 

From 5 to 6 is scale 4 hip. 

Mark line E from 2 through point G to 8. 

From 8 to 9 is scale 9 waist. | From 8 to 10 is scale 3 waist. 

Shape and cut to fancy or fashion. 

Under Side. 

Lay front part on to under side, leaving cloth enough for point 11, 
From 8 to 11 is scale 6 waist. | From 8 to 12 is scale 4 hip. 

Mark straight line from 7 to 12. 

From 5 to 13 is scale 2 hip. Shape back seam from 12 to 13. Bottoms? 
drafted like Diagram 3, and other points by this, (Dia. 4,) is also an excel- 
lent draft for boys' pants. The bottoms of men's pants can also be drafted 
by Diagram 4, and other points same as Diagram 1 or 3. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING CLOSE FITTING PANTS. 

Diagram 1. 
Straighten edge of cloth from to 7 ; obtain points at bottom and all oth- 
er points same as laid down ; mark straight line from 5 to 6, and from 3 to 
12 ; shape from 5 to 6 and 3 to 13, shaping a little inside of line at knee. 

• Back Part. — Diagram 2. 

From 9 on forepart, to 20 is scale 2 hips, which shortens point 20, § of an 
inch ; mark straight line from 22 to 13, and shape from 20 ; shape outisde 1 
seam from 17 to 0, touching point 8, or come in at knee on both seams th£ 
size you wish to cut. 






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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




m ii i ii nun, 1 1, ,„..., 

014 082 847 6 9 



GEORGE LYON & CO., 

158 Washington Street, 

Are sole Agents in the City of Boston, for the sale of Awerf 1'ant am. 
Vi 5T System. I have authwlzed them to appoint Agent, in any City o, 
V llage in tie New England States. The price invariably will be, for Pant 
RnfeSe.OOj Vest .^..ou; for Pant and Vest Rule on one Sqnare, ttO.OO. 

s. (. AMES. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 847 6 



